There are moments in the world of haute horlogerie when a timepiece transcends its functional purpose and becomes something far more profound—a wearable work of art that tells stories across centuries. Last week, Vacheron Constantin unveiled three spectacular new interpretations of the Grand Lady Kalla, and I’ll confess: these pieces left me breathless.
As someone who has followed the evolution of jewelry watches for years, I’ve seen countless creations that blur the line between timekeeping and adornment. But what Vacheron Constantin has achieved with these new Grand Lady Kalla models—set with sapphires, rubies, and emeralds—represents something special. This is the first time the storied Kalla line has embraced colored gemstones, marking a vibrant new chapter in a legacy that stretches back more than four decades.
A Legacy Written in Diamonds
Before we dive into these dazzling new creations, it’s worth understanding the heritage they honor. The story begins in 1979, when Vacheron Constantin shocked the watchmaking world with the Kallista—a one-of-a-kind masterpiece designed by Raymond Moretti. That groundbreaking timepiece featured a rivière bracelet paired with a solid 18K gold case weighing 140 grams, sculpted from a single ingot and set with 130 carats of diamonds.
The following year brought Lady Kalla, crafted in 18K yellow gold and adorned with 108 emerald-cut diamonds totaling approximately 30 carats. What followed was a succession of “Kalla” variations: Miss Kalla, Queen Kalla, Lord Kalla, King Kalla, Duchesse Kalla, and more. In 2001, a Lady Kalla model won the Jewelry Watch award at the first Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. To mark the line’s 30th anniversary in 2010, the Maison presented Lady Kalla Flame, inaugurating the distinctive Flame cut—an innovation developed by Vacheron Constantin and registered with the Gemological Institute of America.
In 2024, the original Grand Lady Kalla made its debut, featuring a sophisticated monochrome palette of diamonds, white Akoya pearls, and black onyx beads. That design introduced a revolutionary concept: a watch and tassel sautoir that could be worn in four different configurations. Now, for 2025, Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary year, the Maison adds the drama of colored gemstones to this remarkable collection.
The Art of Four-Way Transformation
What makes the Grand Lady Kalla truly exceptional is its versatility. Each creation consists of four fully gem-encrusted, interchangeable elements: a watch, a decorative jewel piece, a three-row rivière-style bracelet, and an elongated 85-centimeter sautoir necklace. Thanks to ingenious hidden locking mechanisms that require no tools whatsoever, the wearer can transform the piece from a wristwatch to a bracelet, a pendant, or an elegant sautoir—adapting seamlessly to different occasions and moods.
This modularity isn’t just a clever technical achievement; it’s a continuation of Vacheron Constantin’s long tradition of transformable jewelry. The Maison’s archives include a remarkable piece from 1924—a multicolored gemstone creation that could be worn as either a pendant or a brooch. A century later, Vacheron Constantin has quadrupled that versatility, creating jewelry that truly lives and breathes with its wearer.
Fitting the watch to the sautoir revives the elegant gestures of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when women often wore pendant watches and checked the time by delicately lifting the sautoir with their fingertips. Whether on the sautoir or the bracelet, the watch can be exchanged with the jewel piece in moments, transforming from timekeeper to pure jewelry and back again.
Three Visions in Precious Color
Each of the three new Grand Lady Kalla models tells its own story through color and craftsmanship. Let me walk you through what makes each one extraordinary.
The Sapphire Edition is crafted in 18K white gold and features approximately 49.72 carats of intensely vibrant sapphires. Eight emerald-cut sapphires grace the bracelet, two adorn the watch, and two embellish the jewel piece, while a striking sugarloaf-cut sapphire weighing approximately 2.54 carats commands attention at the center of the jewel component. The accompanying sautoir combines 112 lustrous Akoya pearls with 31 polished sapphire beads and 20 beads of serene blue chalcedony, creating a symphony of blues that evokes both sophistication and depth.
The Ruby Version mirrors this exuberance with approximately 49.85 carats of rubies set in 18K white gold. The warm, passionate red of the rubies creates a captivating interplay with the cool brilliance of white diamonds. The sautoir here features 31 polished ruby beads complemented by 112 Akoya pearls and 20 beads of pink chalcedony. At its heart lies a magnificent sugarloaf-cut ruby of approximately 2.45 carats—a gem that seems to glow from within.
The Emerald Model takes a different approach, setting approximately 35.72 carats of emeralds in 950 platinum—a choice reflecting the relative rarity and delicacy of these precious green stones. The deep, intense green of the emeralds contrasts subtly yet powerfully with the brilliance of white diamonds, creating an aesthetic particularly suited to evening elegance. The sautoir features 31 emerald beads, 112 Akoya pearls, and 20 chrysoprase beads. The central sugarloaf-cut emerald weighs approximately 1.95 carats, and like all colored stones in these creations, it’s certified by the Swiss Foundation for the Research of Gemstones (SSEF).
The Technical Mastery Behind the Beauty
What truly distinguishes these pieces is the level of craftsmanship invested in every detail. Each model features a total of 45.66 carats of diamonds across its four interchangeable elements. The three-row rivière-style bracelet alone comprises 103 emerald-cut diamonds alongside the central row of eight colored precious stones.
The watch cases measure just 19.4 by 30.1 millimeters, with a thickness of 8.3 millimeters, remarkably svelte dimensions that house Vacheron Constantin’s Calibre 1212, a quartz movement comprising 85 parts and six jewels. The movement measures just 11.3 millimeters in diameter and stands 2.5 millimeters tall, operating at a frequency of 32.7Hz. While a quartz movement might surprise some purists, it’s the perfect choice here, guaranteeing precision and reliability while preserving the purity of the design without intruding on the jewelry’s aesthetic supremacy.
The dial of each watch is fully paved with 14 emerald-cut diamonds, creating what I can only describe as a rectangle of pure diamond fire. The setting crown is entirely concealed to preserve the dial’s integrity, disappearing into the seamless gem-setting that defines these pieces.
And here’s a detail that made me smile: the claw settings that secure each stone are shaped to form Vacheron Constantin’s emblematic Maltese Cross when closed. It’s a hidden signature, visible only to those who look closely—a secret handshake between the Maison and its most discerning collectors.
The Art Deco Soul
With the rectilinear geometry of the bracelet, watch, and jewel piece contrasted against the sinuous grace of the sautoir necklace, the Grand Lady Kalla carries a powerful echo of Art Deco style. This isn’t accidental. The emerald cut chosen for both the diamonds and colored stones emphasizes the period’s signature sophistication and restrained luminosity, while the sugarloaf cut used for the central stones adds sculptural depth and soft, glowing presence.
The sautoirs themselves are marvels of composition. Each features nearly 200 Akoya pearls, specifically 112 lustrous examples chosen for their perfect roundness and creamy luster. These pearls aren’t just decorative elements; they’re carefully selected treasures that create an appealing dialogue between historical elegance and contemporary design. Combined with the ornamental stone beads and 120 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling approximately 1.10 carats, each sautoir represents over 50 carats of additional gemstones—and that’s not even counting the watch, bracelet, and jewel piece.
The Complete Experience
Each Grand Lady Kalla arrives in an elegant presentation box accompanied by a specially designed document holder containing an original designer’s gouache illustration of the piece and a certificate of authenticity. It’s a thoughtful touch that acknowledges these aren’t simply purchases. They’re acquisitions of artistry and heritage.
Sandrine Donguy, Vacheron Constantin’s Product and Innovation Director, beautifully articulated the philosophy behind these creations: “By considering artistic sensibilities, aesthetic trends, and technical developments in the context of changing social norms and customs, we have captured the constantly evolving spirit of the times while fulfilling feminine expectations and desires.”
That statement resonates deeply with me. These pieces aren’t trapped in nostalgia; they’re vibrantly alive, speaking to contemporary women who seek both creativity and versatility in their jewelry. They’re designed for women who want their precious pieces to adapt to their lives, not the other way around.
A New Chapter in an Enduring Story
Since its founding in 1755, Vacheron Constantin has forged a powerful bond with women, creating beautiful timepieces decorated with precious stones, enameling, guillochage, and engraving. The Maison’s private collection includes exquisite examples dating back to 1812—early gem-set watches that demonstrate how deeply this relationship runs.
But these new Grand Lady Kalla models represent more than just another chapter in that long story. They embody a vision of luxury that’s simultaneously rooted in tradition and utterly contemporary. They celebrate the feminine desire for versatile jewels that can adapt to multiple occasions while maintaining the highest standards of craftsmanship and artistic integrity.
The interchangeable system is more than a technical achievement. It’s a philosophical statement about how we wear and experience precious jewelry in the 21st century. These pieces acknowledge that modern women lead multifaceted lives and deserve jewelry that reflects that complexity.
Final Reflections
Until you’ve seen high jewelry pieces like the Grand Lady Kalla being created—gems set one by one, each claw meticulously shaped, each element assembled in pursuit of perfection—it’s difficult to fully appreciate what they represent. These aren’t just watches or jewelry; they’re the culmination of centuries of accumulated knowledge, passed down through generations of master craftsmen.
The pricing? It’s available on request, as one might expect for pieces of this caliber. But that almost seems beside the point. These aren’t accessories; they’re heirlooms in motion, designed to be cherished and passed down through generations, each wearing adding new stories to their legacy.
As I reflect on these three Grand Lady Kalla creations, I’m struck by how they embody everything that makes haute horlogerie and high jewelry so compelling: technical mastery married to artistic vision, tradition reimagined for contemporary life, and above all, the human hands and hearts that transform precious materials into objects of profound beauty.
For nearly three centuries, Vacheron Constantin has been uniting craftsmanship, artistic integrity, and human ingenuity. These latest Grand Lady Kalla models stand as living proof that this tradition continues to evolve, surprise, and inspire—one exquisite detail at a time.
Featured images: Vacheron Constantin
Amanda Akalonu is dedicated to weaving together the worlds of jewelry, watches, and objects through a lens of literary storytelling.
