The world of haute joaillerie has delivered some truly remarkable moments this year, with maisons pushing creative boundaries and showcasing extraordinary gemstones that left collectors and enthusiasts breathless. From Cartier’s bold explorations of balance to Bvlgari’s unapologetic celebration of color, the 2025 high jewelry collections have given us plenty to marvel at and critique. As we close out the year, it’s time to assess which brands truly delivered masterpieces and which fell disappointingly short. This comprehensive review examines the standout 2025 high jewelry collections from the world’s most prestigious houses, grading each on creativity, craftsmanship, and overall impact.
In this article, I’ll be ranking the 2025 high jewelry collections using four clear metrics:
- Awesome: The absolute top of the list, these collections are breathtaking
- Great: Impressive offerings that deserve recognition
- Meh: Collections that didn’t spark much excitement
- Shouldn’t have bothered: Collections that fall flat, where the brand probably shouldn’t have even released anything this year
While I couldn’t cover every single release, the lineup I’m sharing today is guaranteed to impress.
Here’s my review of the 2025 high jewelry collections from storied maisons
Cartier: En Équilibre
En Équilibre is Cartier’s boldest exploration of harmony yet, with 115 pieces in its opening chapter that play with balance—between symmetry and asymmetry, light and structure—to create jewels that feel both modern and timeless. What really captivated me is how the collection unfolds like a conversation between geometry and movement, where every curve and line feels deliberately poised.
My personal favorites are the La Panthère Dentelée necklace, with its panther detailed in onyx spots, diamonds, and emerald eyes holding a sparkling diamond. The animal almost seems suspended in lace alongside emerald beads. Then, there’s the Tsagaan necklace, which perfectly captures the rare, elusive essence of a snow leopard. The trompe-l’œil effect on the Tsagaan necklace makes the feline’s head appear or disappear depending on the angle. Together, these two pieces showcase Cartier’s mastery of quiet drama in a way few maisons can.
My grade: Awesome! It’s creative, technically exceptional, and the use of color is simply incredible.
Tiffany & Co.: Blue Book 2025: Sea of Wonder
The Blue Book 2025 is undeniably beautiful, rooted in oceanic fantasy and executed with Tiffany’s signature polish and gemstone excellence. My favorite piece has to be the seahorse brooch, set with over 9 carats of unenhanced blue sapphires, moonstones, and diamonds. I love the tension between the vibrant stones and the seductive, almost mystical glow that the moonstones bring to the design. It’s truly mesmerizing. The craftsmanship is impeccable, and the gem selection is spectacular.
That said, I do have an issue with the collection: Tiffany’s almost obsessive reliance on Jean Schlumberger. Year after year, the house revisits his visual language as if it’s afraid to step outside that comfort zone. As a result, while the Blue Book is elegant and refined, this constant tie to Schlumberger is starting to make Tiffany feel creatively stagnant, and frankly, a bit unappealing despite the beauty of the pieces.
My grade: Shouldn’t have bothered. If we know Tiffany is only giving us Schlumberger every year, there’s really no reason to get excited for the collection anymore.
Louis Vuitton: Virtuosity
Virtuosity is Louis Vuitton’s most ambitious high jewelry statement to date, unfolding across three chapters: The World of Mastery, The World of Creativity, and Eternal Sun, with a total of 110 pieces. The collection is a confident showcase of technical skill, blending bold structures, rare gemstones, and Louis Vuitton’s evolving design language into a cohesive whole.
While the Apogée necklace rightly earned the Gemstone Prize at the inaugural Grand Prix de la Haute Joaillerie in Monaco in 2025, it wasn’t the piece that truly stayed with me. My personal favorite is the Savoir necklace, which highlights Louis Vuitton’s signature V-shape, anchored by a hypnotic 30.56-carat black opal framed by diamonds and emeralds. To me, this piece perfectly embodies what Virtuosity does best, translating brand identity into high jewelry without losing drama or depth.
My grade: Meh. The collection is nice, but it just didn’t set off any spark for me.
Bvlgari: Polychroma
Polychroma is everything I love about Bvlgari, amplified. I’m a girl who loves color, and this collection delivered far more than I expected. With around 250 high jewelry pieces, it’s a full-spectrum celebration of chromatic excess, where bold gemstone pairings and fearless scale take center stage.
My favorite piece is the Celestial Mosaic necklace, which showcases the fiery glow of a 131.21-carat Tajikistan spinel (the fourth largest in the world), set against the electric brilliance of vivid Paraíba tourmalines. The contrast between the two stones is breathtaking, unfolding into a lush symphony of multicolored leaves inspired by the Tree of Life mosaic of Jericho. For me, Polychroma is Bulgari at its most confident and unapologetic. It proves once again that no house understands color quite like they do.
My grade: Great. It’s everything a high jewelry collection should be.
Boucheron: Impermanence
Impermanence is a 28-piece high jewelry collection, and if you ask me, I wouldn’t say Boucheron is my favorite jewelry brand. Yet every single year, they manage to impress me, and 2025 is no exception. Claire Choisne consistently thinks outside the box, and it’s clear she’s one of the very few creative directors in high jewelry, and perhaps fashion as a whole, who truly bothers to do so. The collection feels remarkably light, plays masterfully with texture, and somehow caresses the mind in ways that feel almost intangible.
My favorite piece is Composition n°4, a poetic ecosystem honoring cyclamens, oats, a caterpillar, and a butterfly. It’s a piece that required an astonishing 4,279 hours of work. Nearly 700 rose-cut diamonds form a stained-glass illusion across the cyclamen’s white-gold petals, while the oat stalk, crafted in black-coated titanium, is minutely sculpted and diamond-set. The scene comes alive with two insects—a diamond-and-spinel caterpillar with articulated movement, and a diamond-encrusted butterfly accented with black lacquer—all anchored by a white-gold vase entirely set with diamonds. My God, it’s amazing.
My grade: Awesome. Anything less would honestly be a crime.
Dior Joaillerie: Diorexquis
Diorexquis is a 163-piece high jewelry collection by Dior Joaillerie, conceived by Artistic Director Victoire de Castellane around three founding themes of Dior’s identity: enchanted landscapes, delicate bouquets, and magical balls. What I love most is the extra thought poured into this collection and how every element is brought to life with unmatched craftsmanship.
My favorite piece is the Diorexquis Forêt Nacrée High Jewelry necklace, featuring mother-of-pearl, ‘bouquets’ of precious stones, varnish-painted three-dimensional animals, turquoise, pearls, colored gemstones, and a large oval-shaped diamond drop. The animals are so lifelike that I can’t help but marvel at the skill it took to create them. It’s no surprise this necklace won the Savoir-Faire Prize at the inaugural Grand Prix de la Haute Joaillerie in Monaco. It perfectly embodies Dior’s poetic and technical mastery.
My grade: Great. The extra thought and craftsmanship really make it stand out.
Chanel: Reach for the Stars
Reach for the Stars is Chanel’s 2025 high jewelry collection, structured into multiple chapters exploring celestial themes and Gabrielle Chanel’s fascination with the cosmos, with approximately 109 pieces in total. The collection balances the house’s iconic motifs, comets, stars, lions, and wings, with contemporary high jewelry craftsmanship to create a universe of radiant, wearable art.
My favorite piece is the Wings of Chanel necklace, which features a 19.55-carat cushion-cut padparadscha sapphire framed by diamonds set in white gold and platinum. The piece literally gives you wings. It captures a sense of freedom, movement, and aspiration. As Gabrielle Chanel once said, “If you’re born without wings, don’t do anything to stop them from growing,” and this stunning necklace embodies that sentiment perfectly.
My grade: Meh. Honestly, for me, there was no spark, and some pieces actually felt a bit boring.
Chopard: Red Carpet Collection 2025
Chopard Red Carpet 2025 is a high jewelry collection celebrating cinema glamour and extravagance, with approximately 78 pieces in total. The collection draws inspiration from the magic of the red carpet, weaving floral, animal, and cosmic motifs into both statement and wearable art.
My favorite pieces are the Chopard Snake necklace, featuring over 87 carats of pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds accented with 11.93 carats of pear-shaped emeralds, and onyx set in 18k white gold, and the Chopard Flower earrings, which include 18.09 carats of opal cabochons, multicolored sapphires, alongside ruby and diamonds set in titanium.
That said, while there are pieces that truly stand out, a large portion of the collection feels almost childish, as if some designs were put together hurriedly without the thoughtful artistry we expect from Chopard. For that, I grade this collection: Shouldn’t have bothered.
Chaumet: Jewels by Nature
Jewels by Nature consists of approximately 54 pieces and is structured into several thematic chapters exploring nature-inspired motifs like flora, fauna, and landscapes. The collection emphasizes delicate craftsmanship and poetic storytelling, with each piece evoking movement, life, and texture drawn from the natural world. I love it when you can clearly see the idea behind a collection, and Chaumet delivers brilliantly.
My favorite piece is the Oat and Field Star High Jewelry Parure, which depicts a landscape of oats and field stars undulating in the wind, set in a shimmering combination of white and yellow diamonds. The effect is simply breathtaking. For me, this collection perfectly showcases Chaumet’s ability to blend narrative, technical mastery, and aesthetic beauty into a cohesive, evocative ensemble.
My grade: Awesome. Honestly, it was hard to find a single piece in the collection that I didn’t like.
Mikimoto: Les Pétales
Les Pétales is Mikimoto’s 2025 high jewelry collection, celebrating the house’s mastery of pearls with delicate floral motifs and subtle hints of color that enhance each gem’s natural luster. I confess I have a weakness for Mikimoto because I love pearls, but my review of this collection is by no means influenced by that.
Mikimoto truly delivered on elegance and character, and it would be unfair to say I love it just because pearls are prominently featured. The flower petals, the delicate touches of color, and the luminous sheen of the pearls create an ethereal, dreamlike quality throughout the collection. My favorite piece is the Akoya Cultured Pearl Choker Necklace, featuring 9 rows of pearls, a 24.17-carat tourmaline, and 49.94 carats of diamonds set in 18k white gold. It’s feminine, sexy, and bold without being humble. I absolutely love it.
My grade: Great. It truly delivers.
My Favorite and Least Favorite Pieces from the 2025 High Jewelry Collections
Now, let’s talk about my favorite and least favorite pieces from the 2025 high jewelry collections.
My least favorite has to be Tiffany & Co. While it was a close call between Tiffany and Chopard, Tiffany takes the crown here because, honestly, I am tired of the yearly dose of Schlumberger. It feels like Tiffany has stopped creating truly incredible pieces and now relies on celebrities to sell their jewelry on the red carpet.
On the other hand, my favorite has to be Boucheron’s Impermanence collection. Talk about thinking outside the box, masterful craftsmanship, jewelry with heart and soul, and, of course, a generous dose of shimmer. It’s absolutely divine.
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Now I want to hear from you: Which high jewelry collection of 2025 is your favorite, and which one is your least favorite? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
Featured image: Boucheron
Amanda Akalonu is dedicated to weaving together the worlds of jewelry, watches, and objects through a lens of literary storytelling.
