I’ve covered plenty of jewelry events over the years, but there was something electric in the air at the Salle des Étoiles at Monte-Carlo’s Sporting complex on October 25th. Perhaps it was the caliber of houses in attendance—Chanel, Tiffany, Bulgari, and eight others representing the absolute pinnacle of high jewelry. Or maybe it was the knowledge that we were witnessing history: the very first Grand Prix de la Haute Joaillerie Monaco, an event that promises to become as significant to the jewelry world as the Oscars are to film. Whatever the reason, by the time the evening concluded with eight winners crowned and one visionary honored, it was clear that the luxury landscape had gained a powerful new institution.
Monaco’s Bold Bet on High Jewelry
Let me start by saying that the location couldn’t be more perfect. Monaco has long been synonymous with luxury, glamour, and excellence—from the Formula 1 Grand Prix to the Monte-Carlo Casino, the principality knows how to celebrate the finest things in life. So when the Monte-Carlo Société des Bains de Mer (SBM) and Jean-Philippe Braud, president of Paris-based events communication agency Profirst France, co-founded this new awards ceremony, they weren’t just creating another jewelry event. They were establishing what could become the definitive annual celebration of haute joaillerie.
The Grand Prix de la Haute Joaillerie Monaco 2025 ran from October 22-25, with the main gala and awards ceremony taking place on that final evening. Eleven internationally recognized jewelry houses participated: Anna Hu, Boucheron, Bulgari, Chanel, Chopard, Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, Louis Vuitton, Martin Katz, Messika, and Tiffany & Co. Emerging names, including Dianer Joaillerie, Jothi-Seroj, Sahag Arslanian, and Tatiana Verstraeten, also submitted their creations. Each house could present up to three designs to the jury, resulting in 33 masterpieces being showcased—each one representing the unique spirit and craftsmanship of its creator.
A Jury Worth Its Weight in Diamonds
The jury assembled for the inaugural edition reads like a who’s who of the jewelry and luxury world. Chaired by Fabienne Reybaud, the panel included some fascinating figures: Tristan Auer, the architect and designer who actually created the trophy itself; and Evelyne Possémé, honorary curator of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.
But what I love about this jury composition is its diversity of perspective. You’ve got Chayapa Chutrakul, founder of The Pink Lab, bringing expertise in colored gemstones. Brune de Margerie, collector, art historian, and fashion editor-in-chief of Elle France, offering a fashion-forward lens. Emmanuel Piat, gemologist and CEO of Maison Piat, providing technical gemological knowledge. And Philippe Scordia, both collector and gemologist, representing the collector’s viewpoint. With Stéphane Valeri and Constance Assor (deputy editor-in-chief of Le Point) rounding out the panel, this wasn’t a jury that would be swayed by name recognition alone. They were looking for genuine excellence.
And the Winners Are…
The Grand Prix: Chanel’s Sporty Sophistication
When Chanel took home the top prize at the Grand Prix de la Haute Joaillerie Monaco 2025, it felt both surprising and entirely deserved. The winning piece, the “Sweater” Necklace from the Haute Joaillerie Sport collection (created in 2024), is exactly the kind of audacious creativity that Chanel is known for. Imagine taking something as casual and cozy as a sweater and translating it into high jewelry—the technical challenge alone is staggering. But beyond technique, there’s conceptual brilliance here: questioning what high jewelry can be, who can wear it, and in what contexts. It’s playful without being frivolous, and supremely luxurious while nodding to everyday life. In short, it’s very Chanel.
Tiffany’s Double Victory
If there was a house that dominated the evening, it was Tiffany & Co., taking home both the Jury’s Special Prize and the Heritage Prize. For the Heritage Prize, they presented the Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany Butterflies Choker from 1956—a piece that needs no introduction to anyone who knows jewelry history. Schlumberger’s organic, nature-inspired designs revolutionized American jewelry in the mid-20th century, and this choker remains a testament to his genius. The fact that a nearly 70-year-old piece can still captivate a contemporary jury speaks to its timeless brilliance.
The Jury’s Special Prize recognized Tiffany for the sophistication and creativity of its latest collections, with particular attention to the Cascade necklace from its 2024 high jewelry capsule collection. Designed by Nathalie Verdeille and featuring natural saltwater pearls and diamonds, it showcases how Tiffany continues to push boundaries while honoring its heritage. Two awards in one evening? That’s a statement.
Design Innovation: Messika’s Wild Side
Messika’s Zebra Luhlaza necklace from the Terres d’Instinct High Jewelry Collection won the Design Award, and honestly, it’s easy to see why. The piece captures movement, pattern, and the untamed beauty of African wildlife in a way that feels both bold and refined. Messika has built its reputation on contemporary, wearable high jewelry that appeals to a younger, more dynamic clientele, and this piece exemplifies that approach perfectly.
Craftsmanship at Its Finest: Dior’s Forêt Nacrée
The Know-How Prize (Savoir-Faire) went to Dior for the Diorexquis Forêt Nacrée necklace, designed by the legendary Victoire de Castellane. If you know Castellane’s work, you know she’s never met a technical challenge she didn’t want to conquer. Her pieces are simultaneously whimsical and technically extraordinary, often incorporating unexpected materials and construction methods. The Forêt Nacrée—which translates to “Pearly Forest”—showcases the kind of intricate work with mother-of-pearl and other materials that required hundreds of hours of artisan labor.
Louis Vuitton’s Gemstone Glory
Louis Vuitton claimed the Gemstone Prize for the Apogée necklace from the Louis Vuitton Virtuosity collection. For a brand that many still primarily associate with leather goods, Louis Vuitton has been making serious waves in high jewelry over the past decade. The Apogée necklace features a sea of brilliant-cut diamonds, accompanied by an exceptional pear-shaped emerald of 30.75 carats—the kind of gems that make collectors weak in the knees and gemologists reach for their loupes. Taking home the Gemstone Prize at the Grand Prix de la Haute Joaillerie Monaco 2025 further cements Louis Vuitton’s position as a serious player in haute joaillerie.
The Rising Star: Sahag Arslanian
Perhaps the most exciting award of the evening was the Best Hope Prize (Emerging Talent), which went to Sahag Arslanian for the Lunar Eclipse necklace. The brand only launched its first high jewelry collection in July, making this recognition remarkably swift. It’s a reminder that the jewelry world is still open to fresh voices and new perspectives, and that technical mastery and creative vision can be recognized regardless of how long you’ve been in the game.
People’s Choice: Dolce & Gabbana’s Italian Romance
The People’s Choice Prize went to Dolce & Gabbana for a necklace from the 2024 Sardaigne Collection (Alta Gioielleria). This award is particularly interesting because it represents public taste rather than jury preference. Dolce & Gabbana’s maximalist, exuberant approach to jewelry—deeply rooted in Italian culture and craftsmanship—clearly resonates with a broad audience. Their pieces tell stories, celebrate heritage, and aren’t afraid to be joyful and abundant.
A Visionary Honored
Beyond the eight competitive awards, the Grand Prix de la Haute Joaillerie Monaco 2025 also presented a Visionary of the Year Award to Caroline Scheufele, co-president and artistic director of Chopard. This recognition feels particularly apt. Scheufele has been instrumental in shaping Chopard’s jewelry vision for decades, from the iconic Happy Diamonds collections to the brand’s cutting-edge use of ethical gold. She represents the kind of long-term creative leadership that has elevated not just one house, but the entire industry’s standards.
What the Event Means To Me
Here’s what strikes me about the inaugural Grand Prix de la Haute Joaillerie Monaco 2025: it arrives at exactly the right moment. The luxury jewelry market has been experiencing unprecedented growth, with high jewelry attracting younger collectors and broader international interest. Yet there hasn’t been a single, definitive event that brings together the top houses to celebrate their craft in a competitive but collegial format.
Fashion has the CFDA Awards and the British Fashion Awards. Film has the Oscars and Cannes. But jewelry? Until now, the industry has lacked that one annual moment when everyone comes together to celebrate excellence. The Grand Prix de la Haute Joaillerie Monaco has the potential to fill that gap.
What I particularly appreciate is how the awards are structured. With eight different categories—from Grand Prix to Emerging Talent to People’s Choice—the event recognizes multiple forms of excellence. You can be celebrated for heritage, for innovation, for craftsmanship, for gemstone selection, or for design vision. This isn’t a one-size-fits-all competition; it acknowledges the multifaceted nature of high jewelry.
The Fifteen Houses: A Snapshot of Excellence
Looking at the fifteen participating houses provides a fascinating cross-section of the high jewelry world. You’ve got heritage French houses like Boucheron (founded in 1858) and Chanel (1910) sharing space with American icon Tiffany & Co. (1837). There’s Italian excellence represented by Bulgari and Dolce & Gabbana. Louis Vuitton and Dior bring the LVMH powerhouse perspective, while Messika represents the contemporary, design-forward approach to high jewelry. Chopard contributes Swiss precision and innovation, and Anna Hu brings her unique fusion of Eastern and Western design sensibilities.
Each house could submit up to three pieces, meaning the jury had to evaluate at least 33 extraordinary creations. The fact that they managed to identify clear winners across eight categories speaks to both the quality of the submissions and the expertise of the jury.
Looking Ahead
As I reflect on the Grand Prix de la Haute Joaillerie Monaco 2025, what excites me most isn’t just the winners or even the spectacular jewelry on display. It’s the promise of what this event could become. If the organizers can maintain this level of participation and prestige, we could be looking at the birth of an institution that will shape the high jewelry conversation for decades to come. Will next year see even more houses participating? Will the categories evolve? How will the event grow while maintaining its exclusivity and standards? These are questions I’m eager to see answered.
For now, though, we have eight winners, one visionary honoree, and proof that Monaco knows how to celebrate excellence. The Grand Prix de la Haute Joaillerie Monaco 2025 has set a high bar—both for its winners and for itself. Based on what I witnessed in that glittering evening at the Salle des Étoiles, I’d say they cleared it with room to spare. Here’s to many more years of celebrating the extraordinary artistry of haute joaillerie.
Featured image: Dior
Amanda Akalonu is dedicated to weaving together the worlds of jewelry, watches, and objects through a lens of literary storytelling.
