It was 6:00 am and Laurence Graff sprang to his feet in anticipation of the day that lay ahead. If this was any other day, he probably would have stayed curled up in bed, savoring the bliss of sleep even when the early morning sunshine that peaked through his window was determined to awaken him. But this wasn’t any other day. It was the day he would take a big step in pursuit of his dream, that, even at 15, was already setting him on fire–the kind that one would associate with the most beautiful diamonds. “I work as an apprentice at Schindler’s workshop in Hatton Gardens,” Graff said to his reflection in the mirror, already rehearsing his preferred lines for when he tried to impress with his fancy job in the world of diamonds, gemstones, and jewelry.
A Polished Gem: The Training of Graff
It was his mother, Rebecca Segal, who first noticed the way he marveled at her modest rings, turning them in the sunlight to make them sparkle. And she, a woman of humble means yet boundless foresight, decided to nurture this unusual love. With what little they had, she sent young Laurence off to apprentice at Schindler’s workshop—a craftsman who recognized not just potential but a raw, unquenchable hunger in the boy’s spirit. She also enrolled him in part-time classes at the Central School of Arts and Crafts to hone his skills.
On the day they headed off to Schindler’s, Laurence couldn’t contain his excitement. He began his day very early and was already freshened up and ready before she could roll out of bed, unlike him. As they journeyed to the jewelry workshop, he had a certain kind of swagger in his walk, almost like he was drifting on the clouds. And his smile. Oh, that smile was the purest expression of his joy and what the day held in store.
In those early days, Laurence’s world became one of fire and patience. He learned the secrets of heating metals, the art of casting, and the almost spiritual rhythm of setting gemstones. The work was hard, the tools crude, but Laurence was determined. He was not just intrigued with the craft but by the stories locked inside each gemstone, carried to the surface by molten lava, then cut and worn by people from different walks of life.
But it wasn’t all going to be so blissful for Graff as he soon encountered his first hurdle in the pursuit of his dreams. His tutor at the Central School of Arts and Crafts quipped that Laurence would “never make the grade”–but the tutor would be disastrously wrong. Those words, rather than break his spirit, would serve as the fuel that propelled Graff’s engine to the top. Soon enough, Laurence was able to take over Schindler’s shop—a full-circle moment that symbolized his journey from apprentice to master.
The Birth of Graff Diamonds
Laurence knew his true dream lay beyond London’s city limits. He aspired to uncover the mysteries of the world’s rarest diamonds, to hold in his hands stones that had been the envy of empires. And so he ventured into uncharted territories of the industry, taking risks where others hesitated. In 1960, Laurence founded Graff Diamonds, a humble venture in the heart of London that would one day crown him the ‘King of Diamonds.’ This was not just the beginning of a business but the dawn of a legacy, built on the bedrock of his passion for gems.
In 1966, Laurence made an audacious move to put Graff Diamonds on the map. He commissioned the English jewelry designer Robert Thomas to create a masterpiece to showcase the artistry of Graff Diamonds at the De Beers Diamond International Awards. The result was an exquisite ribbon bracelet, where each diamond seemed to float like a droplet of light caught mid-air. It won the competition, propelling Graff’s name into the sphere of global renown and signaling that his brand was not only a participant in the world of luxury but a leader with innovation coursing through its veins.
A Prestigious Clientele
By 1974, Graff Diamonds had begun specializing in meeting the desires of newly affluent buyers from the Middle East, whose tastes demanded opulence, exclusivity, and the timeless allure of diamonds. The turning point came with its first major client—a wealthy Middle Eastern prince who, upon seeing the young jeweler’s work, recognized an artist whose medium was light itself. This client, the Sultan of Brunei, Hassanal Bolkiah, would become more than just a client; he was a patron, a friend, entrusting Graff to craft jewels befitting his royal status.
Then there was the storied visit of Prince Turki II bin Abdulaziz Al Saud, who walked into Graff’s showroom and, with a gesture that would become legendary, purchased every single piece on display, including a luminous 14-carat diamond. Beyond these Middle Eastern royalties, Graff’s clients cut across every region and industry, including Elizabeth Taylor, Oprah Winfrey, and US President Donald Trump, who turned to Graff for an engagement ring for Melania.
Laurence’s unwavering dedication to his craft earned not only the loyalty of clients but the recognition of his homeland. In 1973, Graff Diamonds became the first jeweler to receive the Queen’s Award for Industry and Export, a testament to the house’s excellence in craftsmanship and business acumen. This prestigious honor would be bestowed upon the brand four more times, the last in 2014.
The brand’s philosophy encompassed every phase of a diamond’s journey—from the moment it emerged from the earth to its transformation into exquisite Graff Jewelry. Cutting and polishing were meticulously conducted in Johannesburg by the South African Diamond Corporation, part of Graff’s vertically integrated operations.
Graff Diamonds has also taken an ethical stance, adhering strictly to the Kimberley Process, ensuring that none of the stones procured fed conflict or human suffering. Most of their diamonds bore the profound mark of integrity—a unique Gemological Institute of America (GIA) tracking number, laser-engraved and invisible to the naked eye, linking each stone to its origin and safeguarding its story.
Graff’s Love Affair with Diamonds
As the years unfolded, the Graff name began to echo in the grand salons of Paris, the high-stakes auction houses of Geneva, and the glittering enclaves of New York City. But it was Laurence’s love affair with diamonds that set him apart. Graff sought not just any stones, but the rarest, the largest, and the most exquisite diamonds that left even the most seasoned collectors in awe.
One of his most audacious pursuits was the 2017 acquisition and transformation of the Lesedi La Rona, the largest diamond unearthed in over a century at the time, for $53 million. This behemoth stone, initially a rough miracle weighing over 1,100 carats, was thought impossible to cut with precision.
But Laurence, ever the connoisseur of the impossible, dared to dream otherwise. He assembled a team of the world’s finest artisans, who, over a painstaking period, transformed it into a collection of dazzling masterpieces. Each cut was a testament to human ingenuity and the ceaseless drive for perfection.
Graff’s Treasures
In Graff’s storied vaults lay treasures that read like the verses of an epic poem. “The Windsor Yellows,” once the prized jewels of Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, whisperes tales of royal defiance. Weighing 40.81 and 52.13 carats, the pear-shaped miracles dance with the fire of a thousand suns.
And there are the diamonds that transcended fame: the 31.06-carat “Wittelsbach-Graff Diamond,” whose royal history spans centuries and was reignited when Graff re-polished it to reveal a deeper, more vivid blue.
The “Lesotho Promise,” a 603-carat rough diamond discovered in the Kingdom of Lesotho, which Graff masterfully cut into 26 flawless gems, represented a symphony of craftsmanship and nature’s grandeur.
His acquisitions didn’t stop there. The Graff Pink, a 24.78-carat pink diamond dubbed “the most fabulous pink diamond in the world,” was another star in the constellation of gems that define the Graff legacy. The purchase of this stone at auction captured global headlines, reinforcing his name as the ‘King of Diamonds’ and solidifying Graff’s position at the apex of the world’s high jewelry landscape.
Graff Diamonds Legendary Jewels
Each jewel from Graff is a chapter in a story of brilliance, passion, and daring imagination. From rare stones steeped in history to creations that redefine luxury, Graff’s treasures are as timeless as they are extraordinary.
Eternal Twins
The Eternal Twins is a masterpiece of luxury and a daring work of art. These twin diamonds, cut from the same rare stone, mirror each other in perfect harmony. Weighing 50.23 and 50.12 carats, they embody the duality of strength and grace, telling a poetic tale of unity and the eternal dance of light.
The Graff Ruby
Another masterpiece is the $8.6 million Graff Ruby, often hailed as the “finest ruby in existence.” At 8.62 carats and set in a diamond ring, it radiates the depth of a sunset sky with its unmatched pigeon blood hue. Forged in Earth’s secret chambers, this ancient marvel is more than a gem—it’s the heartbeat of passion itself.
The Graff Peacock Brooch
The Graff Peacock Brooch is a creation so audacious–only Graff could dare imagine this masterpiece! Valued at a staggering $100 million, this diamond brooch takes the form of a peacock adorned with 1,305 diamonds. At its heart lies a mesmerizing 20.02-carat blue diamond, surrounded by colored diamonds totaling 120.81 carats.
Graff Lesotho Pink Diamond Ring
Another dazzling display of Graff’s artistry and unmatched vision is the Graff Lesotho Pink Diamond Ring, a rare blush of nature’s palette. This exquisite piece cradles a 13.33-carat pink diamond, its delicate hue enhanced by a setting that showcases its beauty. Sourced from the famed Lesotho mine, this ring is a symbol of rarity and romance—a true grail among Graff’s legendary treasures.
Holography Meets High Jewelry
Graff doesn’t rest solely on the beauty of these legendary jewels. The brand has also taken a plunge into high jewelry watchmaking, where each timepiece is adorned with the same dedication to luxury and precision.
The Graff Diamonds Hallucination, valued at $55 million, is a kaleidoscope of rare-colored diamonds set into a platinum bracelet. It is not just a watch; it’s a testament to Graff’s boundless ambition.
Another Graff masterpiece is the Graff Fascination, showcasing 152.96 carats of white diamonds and a detachable 38.13-carat pear-shaped diamond, that doubles as a ring, embodying the marriage of elegance and engineering.
Diamonds Meet Haute Couture
Graff’s innovative approach includes bold marketing. In 1970, the iconic ‘Hair & Jewel’ campaign featured a model with $1 million worth of Graff Diamonds arranged in her hair. This audacious move signaled the brand’s modern approach and influence.
In 2013, Graff revisited the concept on a bigger scale, this time showcasing $500 million worth of 22 of the rarest stones from the Graff Jewelry private collection.
The campaign not only captured the attention of the world but also solidified Graff’s position as a visionary leader in the high jewelry industry.
The Heists That Couldn’t Dim Graff’s Sparkle
Yet Graff’s journey hasn’t been without setbacks as the Graff boutiques have been targets of some of the most daring heists in modern history.
The most audacious of these robberies was the infamous 2009 heist at the New Bond Street flagship store. Two men, dressed in prosthetic disguises, walked in under the guise of being wealthy clients and made off with $65 million worth of jewelry. The scene was almost like something from a Hollywood blockbuster; the execution was cinematic and flawless. But while they escaped into the London streets that day, Graff’s legacy was too resilient to be shadowed by this cruelty. Enhanced security measures and the pursuit of justice followed, but unfortunately, the Graff jewelry was never recovered. However, the brand stood tall, unyielding in the face of adversity.
A Coronation of Craftsmanship
Graff’s journey reached a poignant recognition in 2013, when Laurence Graff was appointed Officer of the Order of the British Empire (OBE) for his services to the jewelry industry—a coronation of sorts, celebrating decades of artistry, philanthropy, and an unwavering commitment to excellence.
From Workshop Dreams to Diamond Thrones
Through triumphs and trials, from being a teenager dreaming in a modest workshop to the halls of the world’s most prestigious auction houses, Lawrence Graff’s story has been one of passion made manifest.
In the diamond-drenched annals of high jewelry, Graff Diamonds is more than a name; it is a story of passion, ambition, resilience, and the relentless pursuit of perfection, told in the language of carats and craftsmanship. It is the story of Laurence Graff, a jeweler whose art gave voice to the beautiful gemstones buried within the heart of the earth. Perhaps, 15-year-old Laurence Graff knew, on that fateful morning in post-war London he awakened even before the sun rose to say hello, that the path he began that day would be one of immense greatness. Maybe it was the reason for the gait in his steps, the excitement in his heart, and the wide grin stamped on his face.
Featured image: Graff
Lydia Oladejo is a creative writer with over seven years of experience writing intriguing stories and engaging content. As a Staff Writer at Sewelo, she explores the artistry and history of high jewelry, blending her expertise in storytelling with a passion for luxury design.
