At Dubai Watch Week 2025, Bvlgari unveiled one of its most culturally significant collaborations to date: the Mattar Bin Lahej x Octo Finissimo. This limited-edition timepiece represents a fusion of Italian design excellence, Swiss mechanical precision, and Emirati artistic heritage, all wrapped in the impossibly thin case that has made the Octo Finissimo a modern icon of haute horlogerie.
The collaboration between the Roman luxury house and celebrated Emirati artist Mattar Bin Lahej creates a timepiece that transcends mere watchmaking. It transforms the Octo Finissimo into a wearable canvas that speaks the language of Arabic calligraphy while maintaining the technical prowess that has earned Bvlgari 11 world records in ultra-thin watchmaking.
Mattar Bin Lahej x Octo Finissimo Is A Cultural Dialogue Engraved in Titanium
The Mattar Bin Lahej x Octo Finissimo is adorned with laser-engraved Arabic calligraphy that flows across every visible surface of the watch—from the 40mm sandblasted titanium case to the integrated bracelet and the minimalist dial. This extensive engraving is not merely decorative. It carries profound meaning rooted in the vision of Dubai’s leadership.
The calligraphy quotes His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Prime Minister of Dubai: “The future will be for those who can imagine, design, and implement it. The future does not wait, but it can be designed and built today.” This forward-looking sentiment perfectly captures Dubai’s transformative spirit and its rapid evolution into a global hub for culture, commerce, and innovation.
According to Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari’s Creative Director of watches, incorporating such calligraphy on a commercial product required special authorization. The permission to use quotes from Sheikh Al Maktoum represents a significant honor and underscores the importance of this collaboration within the broader context of cultural exchange between Italy and the United Arab Emirates.
The Artist Behind the Calligraphy
Mattar Bin Lahej, born in 1968 in Dubai, is a self-taught artist who has become one of the most distinguished figures in Emirati contemporary art. Known as the “Man of Steel” for his signature use of stainless steel in monumental public sculptures, Bin Lahej works across multiple media, including painting, photography, and sculpture, with Arabic calligraphy serving as the unifying thread throughout his diverse body of work.
His artistic philosophy centers on presenting Arabic language and culture through a modern lens, challenging conventional approaches and bringing new perspectives to traditional forms. Bin Lahej describes his work as emerging from the intersection of his environment, his experiences, and his artistic skill.
Perhaps his most famous work adorns the façade of Dubai’s Museum of the Future, where his flowing calligraphic forms have transformed the building into what has been described as “the only building that speaks Arabic.” His monumental sculptures can be found throughout the UAE, including at Jumeirah Al Naseem Hotel, Qasr Al Watan (the Presidential Palace in Abu Dhabi), and various public spaces across Dubai.
Design Philosophy: Minimalism Meets Cultural Expression
The Mattar Bin Lahej x Octo Finissimo strips away the traditional elements typically found on the Octo Finissimo Automatic to create a radically minimalist composition. The dial features no indices, no running seconds subdial, and no visible branding. Instead, only slender black hands share space with Bin Lahej’s distinctive calligraphy, which has been carefully laser-engraved onto the sandblasted titanium dial surface.
This approach transforms the watch into what Bvlgari describes as a “blank canvas”—a concept the brand has explored through previous artist collaborations, including partnerships with Japanese architects Tadao Ando and Kazuyo Sejima. However, the Mattar Bin Lahej edition takes this concept further by extending the calligraphic treatment beyond the dial to encompass the entire watch, including the octagonal case, the integrated bracelet links, and even the folding buckle.
The sinuous, flowing curves of Arabic script create a striking visual contrast against the angular, faceted geometry of the Octo case design. The interplay between the organic calligraphy and the sharp, architectural lines of the titanium case produces a dynamic tension that makes the watch visually arresting from every angle. The overall aesthetic recalls Bvlgari’s 2022 Octo Finissimo Tattoo series with artist Mo Coppoletta, though the cultural and artistic context here is entirely distinct.
Technical Excellence: The BVL 138 Movement
Powering the Mattar Bin Lahej x Octo Finissimo is Bvlgari’s in-house BVL 138 automatic movement, a micro-mechanical marvel that measures just 2.23mm in thickness. When introduced in 2017, this caliber held the distinction of being the world’s thinnest automatic movement. It was a record that contributed to the Octo Finissimo collection’s impressive tally of 11 world records achieved over the years.
The BVL 138 features a platinum micro-rotor for automatic winding, which allows the movement to maintain its ultra-thin profile while still offering the convenience of self-winding operation. The caliber beats at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz) and provides a respectable 60-hour power reserve despite its minimal thickness.
The entire watch, from crystal to caseback, measures just 5mm in thickness—thinner than most smartphone cases. This remarkable thinness is achieved through innovative construction techniques, including using the caseback itself as the movement’s mainplate, eliminating redundant layers, and maximizing efficiency. The sandblasted titanium construction keeps the watch lightweight and comfortable on the wrist despite its 40mm diameter, which positions it as perfectly sized for contemporary tastes.
The watch maintains 30 meters of water resistance—adequate for daily wear, though not intended for aquatic activities. The sapphire crystals on both front and back protect the watch while allowing clear views of both the artistic dial and the mechanical movement.
Limited Production and Exclusivity
The Mattar Bin Lahej x Octo Finissimo is limited to just 70 pieces worldwide, with pricing set at €23,000 (approximately £20,300 or $27,000). This limited production run ensures exclusivity while making the watch somewhat more accessible than Bvlgari’s record-breaking complications, which can cost several hundred thousand euros.
For collectors, the Mattar Bin Lahej edition offers several compelling attributes: the Octo Finissimo’s proven track record as both a technical achievement and a design icon, the cultural significance of featuring an important Emirati artist’s work, the visual drama of comprehensive calligraphic engraving, and the exclusivity of limited production. These factors combine to create a timepiece that appeals to both watch collectors and those interested in contemporary Middle Eastern art.
Featured image: Bvlgari
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