Breaking! The Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti has just slithered onto the horological stage, and it’s unlike anything seen before. This groundbreaking collaboration between Bulgari and MB&F reimagines the iconic Serpenti in a revolutionary mechanical form, blending high jewelry aesthetics with avant-garde watchmaking. Limited to just 33 pieces in titanium, steel, and red gold, this extraordinary timepiece is already one of the year’s most talked-about releases—commanding a price tag between $148,000 and $170,000.
When Bulgari’s creative director of watchmaking, Fabrizio Buonamassa, and MB&F’s visionary founder, Max Büsser, join forces, innovation is inevitable. For their second collaboration, they’ve taken Bulgari’s legendary Serpenti and propelled it into an entirely new dimension, fusing the serpent’s timeless elegance with MB&F’s cutting-edge horology. The result? A daring, futuristic evolution that transforms the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti into a fully-fledged horological machine.
But what makes this timepiece truly extraordinary? Let’s delve into the intricate craftsmanship, radical design, and technical ingenuity that bring this mechanical serpent to life.
Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti: A Vision Years in the Making
Four years ago, Bulgari and MB&F joined forces to create the LM FlyingT Allegra, a dazzling high-jewelry interpretation of MB&F’s first women’s watch. That collaboration was a masterful fusion of Bulgari’s opulent gemstone expertise and MB&F’s signature three-dimensional mechanics. Now, their latest creation slithers into the spotlight, redefining what the Serpenti can be.
Translating the serpent’s fluid, sinuous essence into MB&F’s sculptural horology was no small feat. The watch’s case—a mesmerizing interplay of curves and sapphire crystal—posed a true engineering challenge. Unlike traditional flat surfaces, this biomorphic design required advanced five-axis 3D milling. Even then, the sapphire components had to be painstakingly shaped to ensure flawless water resistance.
As Max Büsser put it, “The biomorphic design of this watch created enormous challenges.” Yet the result is nothing short of breathtaking.
A Shape-Shifting Serpent
One of the most mesmerizing aspects of the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti is its ever-shifting personality. Viewed from above, the serpent’s triangular head is unmistakable—its sapphire “eyes” revealing the intricate mechanics beneath. At its core, the suspended balance wheel serves as the brain of the beast, while the domed hour and minute indicators glow like animated eyes, an effect heightened by hand-applied Super-LumiNova.
But tilt the watch slightly, and its form transforms. The fluid curves and elongated silhouette echo the aerodynamic elegance of a vintage Bugatti Atlantic—a subtle homage to the shared passion for automobiles that unites Buonamassa and Büsser. The sloping sapphire crystals mimic sports car air flaps, while the twin crowns on the side evoke the precision of mechanical wheels. Here, the serpent and the machine become one.
Engineering the Beast
Beneath its serpentine façade beats a heavily modified version of the HM10 movement, first seen in MB&F’s Bulldog. This manual-winding powerhouse is a technical marvel, featuring an oversized 14mm suspended balance wheel pulsating at 2.5Hz—positioned dramatically between the revolving domes. While the Bulldog showcased a jaw-like power reserve display, the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti embraces a more traditional indicator, a subtle nod to its haute horology pedigree.
The case itself is a masterpiece of craftsmanship. Measuring 53mm in length, 39mm in width, and 18mm in thickness, it is available in three distinct versions:
- Rose Gold: Featuring luminous green aluminum hour and minute domes
- Titanium: Accented with striking blue domes
- Black PVD-Coated Steel: Boasting bold red domes
Each timepiece is fastened with a hand-stitched rubber strap featuring a Velcro system—blending comfort with a sleek, futuristic edge. Production is equally meticulous, with only six to eight watches crafted per month. At this pace, completing the full run of 99 pieces will take over a year, making this horological serpent even more elusive—and all the more desirable.
The Price of Owning a Mechanical Serpent
For those drawn to the allure of the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti, the price reflects its rarity and masterful craftsmanship. The titanium and black PVD editions are priced at €140,000, while the rose gold variant commands €161,000—before taxes. A steep investment, but one justified by the fusion of high jewelry and avant-garde horology.
To explore the full details and availability, head over to MB&F’s official website.
Final Thoughts On The Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti
Bulgari’s Serpenti has long embodied transformation, seduction, and power. Now, with MB&F’s visionary touch, it steps into a new era—where time is not just measured but reimagined through mechanical artistry. The Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti is more than an evolution; it’s a bold reinvention and a testament to what happens when two design powerhouses push the boundaries of possibility.
Featured image: MB&F
Sewelo is a world where jewelry, watches, and objects come alive in a shimmering dance of fantasy. Through a literary lens, we celebrate the beauty and elegance that make these treasures more than just possessions.
