When I look at Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lacquered Butterflies, I am instantly transported to a quiet workshop in Wajima City, Ishikawa Prefecture, Japan, where a master artisan meticulously layers rich, lustrous lacquer onto the delicate form of a butterfly. Each brushstroke is a testament to patience, precision, and an almost meditative devotion—an art form carefully preserved and passed down through generations.
Junichi Hakose, a revered lacquer artist, spent years perfecting this craft, unaware that his path would soon intersect with one of the world’s most prestigious jewelry maisons. What began as a quiet pursuit of Japanese lacquerware would soon take flight on a grander stage, culminating in the creation of Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lacquered Butterflies—a collection that brings centuries-old Japanese artistry into the world of Parisian high jewelry.
Across the world in Paris, Van Cleef & Arpels—founded in 1906 and long captivated by the ephemeral beauty of butterflies—sought to reimagine the motif with new depth and vitality. In 2004, the maison found its answer in Hakose, a master trained under maki-e master Masaru Tanaka.
Together, they embarked on a journey to transform butterflies into breathtaking works of wearable art, blending the meticulous tradition of Wajima-Nuri lacquerware with the elegance and refinement of French high jewelry.
Van Cleef & Arpels’ Enduring Love for the Butterfly Motif
Few symbols in nature embody grace, transformation, and fleeting beauty quite like the butterfly. At Van Cleef & Arpels, these winged wonders have long been a source of inspiration, fluttering their way into the maison’s fine jewelry, high jewelry, and timepiece collections. From its earliest years, this jewelry house has reimagined butterflies in countless ways, each creation reflecting a deep appreciation for nature’s delicate artistry.
Since its inception, Van Cleef & Arpels has captured the ethereal motion of butterflies in exquisite clips and earrings, later enhancing them with signature techniques like the Mystery Set. Over time, these creations evolved—sometimes taking on abstract, modernist interpretations, other times remaining true to lifelike details. Adorned with mother-of-pearl, lacquer, or vibrant gemstones, each design pays homage to the themes that have always been at the heart of the maison: nature, couture, and luck.
By 2001, the butterfly motif had taken center stage in the Two Butterfly Collection, a series of jewelry pieces defined by delicate asymmetry and vibrant ornamental stones. Adorned with mother-of-pearl and dazzling gemstones, these creations captured the lively essence of butterflies in motion.
A decade later, in 2010, Van Cleef & Arpels dedicated an entire high jewelry collection to these enchanting creatures. The Butterflies Collection showcased a breathtaking array of winged masterpieces, each celebrating the elegance and joyful energy of butterflies in flight.
This theme extended beyond jewelry into the world of horology, where the Maison’s timepieces featured exquisite butterfly motifs. Enameling techniques such as plique-à-jour, champlevé, and paillonné, along with delicate miniature paintings, infused watch dials with vibrant hues and lifelike textures. Among these horological marvels, the Lady Arpels Papillon Automate stood out—a timepiece where artistry and craftsmanship brought a butterfly to life with mesmerizing motion.
The Birth of Lacquered Butterflies
Among Van Cleef & Arpels’ most mesmerizing butterfly creations is Lacquered Butterflies, a collection born from the extraordinary union of French high jewelry and the time-honored Japanese art of lacquerware.
The journey of Lacquered Butterflies began in 2004 when the Maison sought to push the boundaries of its famed butterfly motif, searching for a technique that could capture both the delicacy and dynamism of these ethereal creatures. Their quest led them to Japan—a country renowned for its lacquer mastery—where they found the perfect collaborator in Junichi Hakose, a distinguished maki-e artist from Wajima City in Ishikawa Prefecture.
Trained under the legendary maki-e master Masaru Tanaka, Hakose had earned a reputation as one of Japan’s foremost lacquer artists, seamlessly blending tradition with innovation. Through techniques such as maki-e (where gold or silver powder is sprinkled onto lacquer to create intricate patterns), raden (the inlaying of mother-of-pearl), and rankaku (the delicate use of finely crushed quail eggshells to form subtle textures), Hakose transformed each butterfly into a miniature masterpiece. His meticulous craftsmanship not only preserved but elevated the centuries-old art of lacquerwork, merging it effortlessly with the luminous elegance of high jewelry.
The Making of a Masterpiece
The creation of Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lacquered Butterflies is an intricate, multi-stage process that begins in France, where the base structure of each butterfly is meticulously crafted from yellow or white gold, adorned with mother-of-pearl and diamonds. These precious materials form a luminous foundation—one that sets the stage for the next chapter of its transformation, unfolding in Junichi Hakose’s workshop in Japan.
There, with an ultra-thin brush, Hakose applies layer upon layer of lacquer, allowing each coat to dry before carefully adding the next. The precision required for the fine lines of maki-e demands years of mastery—where even the slightest deviation can alter the final composition. To further enhance the butterflies’ shimmering iridescence, mother-of-pearl fragments are delicately placed, while minuscule eggshell pieces are arranged with meticulous care. The result is a breathtaking illusion of movement, as if each butterfly might take flight with the mere touch of light.
The entire process—from the initial design to the final embellishments—unfolds over the course of several months, making each lacquered butterfly a true labor of love. The result is a collection that not only reimagines Van Cleef & Arpels’ enduring fascination with nature’s splendor but also pays tribute to the time-honored artistry of Japanese lacquerwork. In every delicate brushstroke and shimmering detail, these creations embody a seamless fusion of French haute joaillerie and Japanese craftsmanship, breathing new life into a timeless motif.
A Collection in Continuous Flight
Since its inception, Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lacquered Butterflies has evolved into a dynamic, ever-expanding collection, with over 46 unique designs crafted to date. The early pieces paid homage to traditional Japanese motifs, featuring delicate cherry blossoms, graceful cranes, and intricate geometric patterns inspired by Edo-period textiles. In recent years, however, Junichi Hakose has expanded the artistic vocabulary of the collection, incorporating contemporary influences—from modern cityscapes and celestial bodies to the shifting beauty of seasonal landscapes.
One particularly striking design draws inspiration from the Ichimatsu Edo Komon pattern, an intricate grid of tiny squares that subtly evokes European cobblestone streets—an elegant nod to the maison’s Parisian heritage. Another piece pays tribute to the winter traditions of northern Japan, depicting the iconic Yukizuri ropes, carefully arranged to shield trees from heavy snowfall. These imaginative interpretations reflect Hakose’s belief that every piece of art should tell a story, weaving together the past and present, East and West, in a seamless harmony of cultures and craftsmanship.
The Resilience of Craftsmanship
In January 2024, Japan was struck by a devastating earthquake that profoundly affected Wajima City. Though Junichi Hakose and his family emerged unscathed, his workshop sustained extensive damage. In response, Van Cleef & Arpels reaffirmed its unwavering commitment to preserving traditional craftsmanship, standing in full support of Hakose and his team.
Nicolas Bos, then President of Van Cleef & Arpels, expressed the maison’s dedication to its esteemed collaborator, stating: “As a Maison committed to preserving savoir-faire, we are intent on extending our full support to Junichi Hakose during this challenging time.”
This poignant chapter in the story of Lacquered Butterflies underscores the deep bond between Van Cleef & Arpels and the artisans who bring its visions to life. More than a collection, it is a testament to the enduring power of artistic collaboration and the vital importance of safeguarding heritage crafts for generations to come.
Van Cleef & Arpels Lacquered Butterflies: A Timeless Allure
Beyond their breathtaking beauty, Van Cleef & Arpels Lacquered Butterflies embody a profound artistic dialogue—one that transcends cultures, techniques, and traditions. In the delicate flutter of their wings, the artistry of two worlds converges, each enriching the other in perfect harmony.
For collectors and connoisseurs, these lacquered butterflies are more than exquisite jewels; they are wearable masterpieces, imbued with history, craftsmanship, and an enduring spirit of resilience. As Van Cleef & Arpels continues to push the boundaries of creativity, one thing is certain: the flight of these extraordinary butterflies is far from over.
Featured image: Van Cleef & Arpels
Lydia Oladejo is a creative writer with over seven years of experience writing intriguing stories and engaging content. As a Staff Writer at Sewelo, she explores the artistry and history of high jewelry, blending her expertise in storytelling with a passion for luxury design.
